Patternmaking History and Theory

Fashion design is increasingly gaining attention as an important form of cultural expression. However, scholarship has largely focused on specific designers and their finished products. This collection reveals the crucial foundational art and craft of patternmaking design, with essays that explore the practice in specific historical and cultural contexts. Probing the theoretical underpinnings that inform patternmaking, Patternmaking History and Theory interrogates topics that span cultures and time periods, ranging from high fashion to home sewing. Taking the reader from women's making and mending for victory during World War Two, to Jamaican dress history and today's complex 3D pattern cutting software, the book examines the creative aspect of a culturally rich skill. Beautifully illustrated and rooted in original research, Patternmaking History and Theory brings together a group of leading international scholars to provide a range of perspectives on a key but often overlooked aspect of design.

Jennifer Grayer Moore is Lecturer of Fashion and Textiles at The Pratt Institute, New York, USA.

List of Illustrations Notes on Contributors Preface Introduction (Jennifer Grayer Moore) 1. A Brief History of Patternmaking (Jennifer Grayer Moore) Approaches to Patterning Apparel: Formal Systems and Improvisation 2. An Education in Pattern Cutting c. 1950; the work of E. Sheila MacEwan (Hannah Wroe) 3. "Knitting Instructions": An Analysis of Red Cross Clothing Patterns (Rebecca Keyel) 4. Making and Mending for Victory: Pattern Creation, Distribution, Use, and the Goal of Conservation for Home Sewers During World War II (Jennifer Grayer Moore) Perspectives on Technical Design and Technological Advancement in Apparel Pattern Drafting 5. The Tailor's Voice: Pattern Drafting Systems and the State of the Art (Catherine Roy) 6. Computer-Aided Patternmaking: A Brief History of Technology Acceptance from 2D Pattern Drafting to 3D Modeling (Fatma Baytar and Eulanda Sanders) 7. Patternmaking Methods for Creating Size-Adjustable Garments (Ellen McKinney, Bingyue Wei) 8. Home Sewing Transformed: Changes in Sewing Pattern Formats and the Significance of Social Media and Web Based Platforms in Participation (Addie Martindale) Creative Diversity: Multicultural Approaches to Pattern Creation 9. Creolized Patternmaking: A Jamaican Perspective (Elli Michaela Young) 10. Re-Make, Re-Model, Re-Define; Fashioning A Nation's Identity (Anthony Bednall) 11. Designed to Impress: The Ottoman Kaftan (Gozde Goncu Berk) Bibliography Index